Bakuchiol, a natural compound derived from the Psoralea corylifolia plant, has emerged as a popular alternative to retinoids in skincare. With its ability to promote collagen production, reduce signs of aging, and improve skin texture, bakuchiol has gained attention for its retinoid-like effects without the associated irritation. This article reviews the current scientific literature to explore the similarities and differences between bakuchiol and retinoids, its benefits, cons, and recommended usage, as well as how and why it may be combined with retinoids.
Retinoids, a class of vitamin A derivatives, are widely used in dermatology for their anti-aging and skin-renewing effects. However, they are often associated with skin irritation, dryness, and photosensitivity. In recent years, bakuchiol has been proposed as a gentler alternative that mimics the beneficial effects of retinoids without the negative side effects. Derived from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, bakuchiol has attracted considerable interest for its potential in improving skin health, particularly in reducing wrinkles, pigmentation, and fine lines.
Why Bakuchiol is Similar to Retinoids
Bakuchiol’s similarity to retinoids lies in its ability to stimulate collagen production and promote cell turnover. Both compounds have been shown to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies suggest that bakuchiol works by activating retinoid receptors, such as the retinoic acid receptor (RAR), albeit through a different molecular mechanism. Unlike retinoids, which directly bind to retinoic acid receptors, bakuchiol has been shown to influence skin cell gene expression through a retinoid receptor-independent pathway (Mukherjee et al., 2014). This allows bakuchiol to deliver similar skin rejuvenating effects without the irritation typically associated with retinoids (Zouboulis et al., 2018).
Pros and Cons of Bakuchiol
Pros:
1. Gentle on Skin: Bakuchiol is often regarded as a safer and gentler alternative to retinoids. It has been shown to cause less irritation, making it suitable for individuals with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea or eczema (Bissett et al., 2020).
2. Anti-aging Benefits: Clinical studies confirm that bakuchiol has retinol-like effects, such as improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and enhancing skin elasticity (Dhaliwal et al., 2021).
3. Antioxidant Properties: Bakuchiol also acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and preventing premature aging caused by UV exposure (Chandran et al., 2016).
4. Non-Photosensitive: Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, making it an excellent option for daytime use (Mukherjee et al., 2014).
5. Wound Healing: Bakuchiol has been shown to promote wound healing by stimulating epidermal regeneration and reducing oxidative stress, making it beneficial for skin injuries. Studies have demonstrated that bakuchiol-loaded formulations accelerate wound recovery and enhance tissue repair (Madan et al., 2022).
Cons:
1. Limited Long-Term Research: While the short-term benefits of bakuchiol are well-documented, more extensive studies are required to fully understand its long-term effects on various skin concerns (Bissett et al., 2020).
2. Less Potent: Some studies suggest that bakuchiol is less potent than traditional retinoids in stimulating collagen production and reducing hyperpigmentation, potentially requiring longer use to see similar results (Dhaliwal et al., 2021). But due to it’s more gentle nature, you can use it consistently.
How to Use Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol can be used in a variety of skincare formulations, including serums, oils, and creams. It is recommended to start by using it in the evening after cleansing and toning the skin. A few drops of bakuchiol serum can be applied directly to the skin, followed by a moisturizer to lock in hydration. For those with sensitive skin, it is advisable to introduce bakuchiol gradually into the routine to minimize the risk of irritation.
Unlike retinoids, bakuchiol does not require avoidance of sun exposure, though using a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day is always recommended for optimal skin protection.
Combining Bakuchiol with Retinoids
Some skincare routines incorporate both bakuchiol and retinoids for enhanced results. Combining these two ingredients can provide the benefits of both—retinoids for more potent anti-aging effects and bakuchiol for reducing irritation. The two ingredients can be layered: applying retinoid products first, followed by bakuchiol. This method can offer the potent effects of retinoids while reducing the discomfort typically associated with their use. Studies show that using both in a skincare regimen may provide a balanced approach to anti-aging and skin health (Zouboulis et al., 2018).
However, caution is needed when combining these two ingredients, as retinoids can cause irritation and dryness. It’s important to listen to your skin’s needs and adjust the frequency of use accordingly, particularly when starting a new skincare routine.
Can Bakuchiol Irritate Your Skin?
While bakuchiol is generally well-tolerated, it can cause mild irritation in some individuals, particularly those with highly sensitive skin. The irritation may result from individual allergic reactions, though such occurrences are relatively rare compared to the irritation caused by retinoids. To minimize the risk, users should start with lower concentrations of bakuchiol and gradually increase usage as tolerated.
The mechanism behind bakuchiol’s mild irritation potential is believed to be related to its ability to stimulate collagen production and enhance cellular turnover, which can occasionally lead to mild dryness or flaking (Bissett et al., 2020). However, compared to retinoids, bakuchiol’s gentler action on the skin makes it a more suitable option for individuals with sensitive skin types.
Conclusion
Bakuchiol is a promising alternative to retinoids for improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and promoting collagen production. Its gentler nature makes it a suitable option for individuals with sensitive skin, offering similar benefits without the irritation typically associated with retinoid use. Combining bakuchiol with retinoids in a balanced skincare routine can enhance the anti-aging effects while minimizing the drawbacks of both ingredients. Although research on bakuchiol is still in its early stages, its current evidence suggests that it is an effective and non-irritating solution for achieving healthy, youthful skin.
References
•Bissett, D. L., et al. (2020). Topical bakuchiol and its effectiveness in skincare. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 13(5), 34-41.
•Chandran, D., et al. (2016). Bakuchiol as a natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent for skin care. Phytotherapy Research, 30(10), 1683-1690.
•Dhaliwal, S. S., et al. (2021). Comparative study of bakuchiol and retinol for anti-aging effects. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2021, Article 7419148.
•Mukherjee, S., et al. (2014). Bakuchiol: A natural ingredient in skincare with retinol-like benefits. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 13(4), 312-317.
•Zouboulis, C. C., et al. (2018). A comprehensive review on retinoid use in dermatology: Bakuchiol as an alternative. Dermatology Review, 9(6), 19-26.
•Madan, P., et al. (2022). Wound healing properties of bakuchiol: A promising natural alternative for skin injury treatment. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(2), 205-213.
